I cuscinetti delle ruote sono tra i particolari che incidono di più sulla scorrevolezza della Vs. Mtb e sono anche tra i pezzi che ricevono maggiori sollecitazioni.

Tra i ciclisti comunque sono poco “considerati”, sia perché si danneggiano difficilmente, sia perché non sono proprio facili da sostituire ma anche perché non è facile valutare la scorrevolezza e capire se è ora di cambiarli o meno.

Io li cambio una volta l’anno se non li macino prima, in qualche occasione sembrano ancora buoni (anche se è difficile valutare la rotazione) ma una volta sostituiti le ruote danno la sensazione di scorrere molto meglio.




Sostituiremo i cuscinetti da una coppia di ruote CTK con perni passanti. I mozzi sono tutti molto simili tra di loro e una volta che avrete capito come fare, con un po’ di attenzione riuscirete a procedere senza grossi problemi.

Ruota anteriore

Iniziamo dalla ruota più facile, quella anteriore.

Smontate il disco per evitare di sporcarlo con il grasso. Il disco si rimuove estraendo le 6 viti che lo fissano al mozzo. Solo in casi eccezionali (tipo il sistema Center Look della shimano) per rimuovere il disco c’è bisogno di una chiave speciale.

Su alcune foto lo trovate ancora montato, io l’ho rimosso successivamente.

Togliete i coperchietti parapolvere che dovrebbero venire via a mano. Al massimo utilizzate le pinze ma fate attenzione a non graffiali. Nella maggior parte dei casi sono messi a pressione, mai avvitati.

16

 A questo punto nel mozzo vedrete i due cuscinetti distanziati dal tubicino separatore.

Il tubicino separatore che sta all’interno si muove leggermente. Infilate un perno e fatelo scorrere fino a beccare lo spigolo del cuscinetto sottostante.

Dall’immagine sotto, anche se si riferisce alla ruota dietro, si vede il distanziatore spostato.

8

Infilate un perno e colpite il cuscinetto a giro su tutta la circonferenza fino a farlo uscire.

13

A questo punto estraete il distanziatore, girate la ruota e fate uscire l’altro cuscinetto.

6 2

Pulite tutto, ingrassate le battute e infilate i cuscinetti nuovi. Per infilare i cuscinetti non usate il martello ma una barra filettata con 2 rondelle e 2 dadi delle giuste misure. Avvitando i dadi i cuscinetti entreranno pari e fino in fondo.

15 14

Non scordate di infilare all’interno della ruota il distanziatore.

Infilati i cuscinetti estraete la barra filettata ed inserite i 2 tappi di chiusura.

I cuscinetti che avete installato al 99% sono sigillati e non hanno bisogno di nulla. Io comunque li passo con uno strato di grasso al litio che ostacola l’ingresso dell’acqua e dei detriti.

Se dovete acquistare dei cuscinetti nuovi ricordatevi che per ordinarli vi servono 3 misure: Diametro esterno, diametro interno e spessore.




Ruota posteriore

Passiamo ora alla ruota posteriore che è un pochino più rognosa.

Smontate il disco e il pacco pignoni. Per smontare il pacco pignoni vi serve una chiave a catena + una chiave per pacco pignoni indifferentemente se sia un pacco standard o Sram 11v.

12

A questo punto svitate il perno centrale con 2 chiavi contrapposte (di solito misura 17).

11

Insieme al perno dovrebbe venir via anche il corpetto. Alcuni corpetti hanno una coppìa superiore di blocco sotto la guarnizione che quindi va rimossa per estrarre il corpetto.

9

Estratto il corpetto vi trovate nella stessa situazione della ruota anteriore: Doppio cuscinetto con distanziale centrale. Sostituiteli con la stessa procedura che abbiamo visto sopra ma questa volta il lavoro non è concluso.

All’interno del corpetto vi sono altri 2 cuscinetti che vanno rimossi e sostituiti.

Togliete la guarnizione parapolvere esterna del corpetto con l’aiuto di un cacciavite.

5

Appoggiate il corpetto su un piano e dalla parte posteriore colpite i cuscinetti (sulla circonferenza) per farli uscire. Anche questi sono composti da 2 cuscinetti e un distanziale. La differenza è che escono tutti e due dallo stesso lato.

4 3

Pulite tutto accuratamente con del petrolio bianco e inserite i due nuovi cuscinetti sempre con l’aiuto della barra filettata. Non scordate il distanziatore e fate attenzione a non toccare o forzare le clip della ruota libera.

Prima di reinserire il corpetto reingrassare la zona della ruota libera con un grasso molto fluido specifico (i grassi troppo densi tendono a frenare lo scorrimento o a impedire che i denti della ruota libera contrastino a fondo con le spigolature del mozzo).




Inserire il corpetto e il perno ma fate attenzione che alcuni perni hanno dei distanziali tipo bronzine o delle rondelle che vanno rimesse a proprio posto. Controllate anche di aver reinserito il parapolvere esterno al corpetto. Quando smontate i pezzi mettete in fila su un piano tutto ciò che togliete in modo da non dimenticare nulla e da non sbagliarvi. Segnate anche il verso del perno quando lo smontate in modo da reinserirlo correttamente.

Terminate le operazioni rimontate il pacco pignone e il disco e come diceva Gerry Calà “Evvia… piu’ veloci della luce…”

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110 Responses

  1. Io ho i mozzi CTK, tipo quelli che fai vedere nell’articolo, ho provato a rimuovere l’anello parapolvere sul corpetto ma non sono riuscito a rimuoverlo facilmente, perciò non ho insistito, mi confermi che va rimosso facendo leva con un cacciavite.
    Complimenti ottimo articolo.

    • Ciao, i cuscinetti della ruota libera vanno estratti insieme o uno per volta ? Perché non riesco a muovere a sufficienza il distanziale in modo da spingere prima uno e poi l’altro .
      Grazie

      • Se forzi il distanziale con qualcosa di robusto si sposta quel tanto che basta per poter battere il cuscinetto.
        Prima ne sfili uno, poi togli il distanziale e poi sfili l’altro.

  2. Sera x togliere il perno.dai cuscinetti conviene battere dal lato disco o pure un lato vale l alrto

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