Manutenzione ordinaria ammortizzatori mtb Fox serie Float ctd

 

In questo articolo parleremo della manutenzione ordinaria periodica dei mono ammortizzatori Fox modello Float ctd e similari.

Nello specifico vedremo come effettuare la pulizia e manutenzione di tutto il sistema parte aria senza smontare il pompante olio e senza effettuare modifiche alla configurazione di serie.

Se utilizzate la bici regolarmente tale operazione andrebbe effettuata almeno ogni 6 mesi ma, visto la rapidità di esecuzione, non sarebbe male controllarlo più spesso.

Ecco il mono in questione

 

In realtà la Fox ne ha fatte varie versioni nel corso degli anni ma se capite il procedimento su questo ammortizzatore potrete facilmente replicarlo anche sui modelli similari.

Lui e tutti i sui “fratelli” prodotti a partire indicativamente dal 2012 facevano parte della categoria “entry level” dell’azienda e, con i loro malfunzionamenti nel corso degli anni hanno fatto imprecare non poche persone.

Primo tra tutti il malfunzionamento del propedal, (il propedal doveva consentire l’apertura dell’ammortizzatore in caso di urto in salita aiutando il rider a superare l’ostacolo ma doveva rimanere quasi bloccato sotto la forza delle normali pedalate del rider – sistema nato da una buona idea mal attuata) ma anche la perdita di pressione della camera ifp con il risultato finale che i rider per anni hanno continuato a fare le salite “dondolando” come se avessero l’ammortizzatore aperto.

Precisiamo che questi tipi di ammortizzatori hanno in genere 3 posizioni (Climb – Trail e Discend) ma non hanno la posizione CHIUSO. Questo perchè nella posizione Climb entra in funzione in maniera rilevante il sistema propedal che, se funzionasse a dovere, potrebbe essere anche più efficiente dell’ammortizzatore completamente bloccato.

Ne consegue che un malfunzionamento del Propedal porta di conseguenza l’ammortizzatore in 3 posizioni assai diverse da quelle scritte sulla scocca e cioè (Discend – Discend – Discend) indipendentemente da dove si mette la leva blu.

 

In questo articolo però ipotizziamo che tutto funzioni a dovere e che dobbiamo effettuare solo la manutenzione ordinaria della parte aria.

Successivamente, con un articolo collegato, vedremo come effettuare la manutenzione anche della parte idraulica e come effettuare le successive eventuali/necessarie modifiche per renderlo più efficiente.

 

Smontiamo l’ammortizzatore

Innanzitutto occorre togliere il mono dalla bici, pulirlo perfettamente e preparare un piano di lavoro pulito.

NON EFFETTUATE ALCUNA OPERAZIONE SE PRIMA NON AVETE SCARICATO LA PRESSIONE DELLA PARTE ARIA!! (RISCHIO ESPLOSIONE)

Per scaricare la pressione della parte aria dovete agire con uno spillo sulla valvola di carico Shrader posta in genere in alto.

 

 

Scaricate tutta l’aria con attenzione (controllate spingendo sul pompante che dovrà risultare libero) poi infilate un tubo da 15 mm nell’anello superiore (io utilizzo un perno ruota), afferrate la parte bassa della scocca con le mani e svitate.

L’ammortizzatore al 99% deve svitarsi a mano.

 

Svitate tutta la scocca e sfilatela dal basso. Quello che otterrete sarà questo

Con l’aiuto di un punteruolo togliete tutte le guarnizioni e i paraoli dal corpo esterno, puliteli accuratamente. In genere son 4 pezzi, 2 un teflon e 2 in gomma.

Sarebbe buona norma sostituire gli elementi di tenuta ma se effettuate spesso la manutenzione del mono potrebbe essere sufficiente anche una accurata pulizia e reingrassaggio.

Ora passate alle tenute del corpo interno facendo massima attenzione a non graffiare il corpo del mono. Qui di solito trovate 3 elementi, 2 n teflon e uno in gomma.

Guardate bene questi elementi in teflon, hanno dei giunti apribili per poterli sfilare.

 

Ora abbassate la rondella in acciaio che si vede sulla foto sopra e togliete la battuta grande bianca in teflon. Per poter sfilare la battuta bianca noterete che la stessa è tagliata su un lato.

Dietro la battuta è presente l’ultimo OR di gomma. Guarnizione che sigilla il corpo esterno al coperchio superiore.

 

Pulite bene tutto con alcool isopropilico senza smontare altro e preparate  su un piano pulito le nuove guarnizioni da installare

 




 

Il Montaggio

Per rimontare il tutto occorre in pratica effettuare le operazioni al contrario facendo comunque attenzione ad alcune questioni.

Ogni volta che riposizionate gli Oring dovete ingrassarli bene con grasso specifico per ammortizzatori.

Prima di tutto infilate in sede l’OR di gomma che sigilla il corpo esterno al coperchio superiore e che si trova in fondo al tappo superiore.

Fatto questo potete sistemare la battuta bianca che si trova sotto il coperchio superiore. Fate attenzione ad infilarla bene, deve arrivare a battuta sul fondo del coperchio con il perno nero centrale entrato nel foro. Successivamente fate scorrere all’indietro la rondella in acciaio che avete spostato precedentemente.

Ora riinfilate tutti gli Or e le rondelle in teflon del corpo esterno e del cilindro interno rispettando la sequenza.

 

Ora infilate parzialmente il corpo dell’ammortizzatore ma prima di chiuderlo e di riavvitarlo occorre versare al suo interno 5 cc di liquido fox float fluid.

 

Stringete bene il corpo mono al coperchio e l’ammortizzatore è pronto per essere ricaricato e rimontato sulla bici.

Ricordate che la pressione massima che può sopportare questo impianto è 300 PSI come illustrato sul sito specifico della Fox.

Di norma questi ammortizzatori vanno caricati tra tra 130/180 psi ma, dato che la pressione di esercizio dipende dal peso del rider e dai leveraggi della Vs. bici esiste un metodo per tararlo con una buona precisione: Misurare il sag dell’impianto.

In parole povere misurare quanto si abbassa l’escursione del mono con voi seduti sopra nella posizione di guida più standard possibile. (Mettetevi comodi mani sul manubrio).

L’ammortizzatore dovrà reagire come da schema che segue:

Ad esempio: se avete un mono con escursione 44,4 mm con il rider in sella (A fermo) il mono si dovrà abbassare di 11,1 mm.

Aiutatevi con un calibro e con la guarnizione di riferimento che misura l’affondamento del mono e aumentate/diminuite la pressione di conseguenza.

 

 




Nei prossimi articoli parleremo della revisione dell’idraulica e di tutte le eventuali modifiche per farlo funzionare al meglio. Nel frattempo potete cominciare a studiare il funzionamento del sistema analizzando accuratamente gli schemi dell’impianto che trovate di seguito.

(le immagini sotto sono inserite “in galleria”. Premete sugli appositi pulsanti per farle scorrere.

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271 Responses

  1. Buongiorno vorrei sapere se si puo’ trovare anche la revisione /manutenzione e modifiche varie per mono fox float ctd…grazie..

  2. Ciao,
    ma se volessi sostituire il comando a levetta con uno a controllo remoto su un DPS Evol Performance (quindi abbastanza recente) posso farlo da me oppure ho bisogno del tecnico specialista che scarica e carica l’azoto?

    grazie

    ciao

    • Per modificare il tiraggio del comando remoto non c’è bisogno in alcun modo di scaricare l’azoto. l’operazione si esegue dall’esterno senza smontare il mono.

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